Climbing E-Rock
Halfway between Fredericksburg and Llano, Texas – about 15 miles from either – rises the most amazing sight. As you round one of the bends in Texas Ranch Road 965 from either direction, this great batholith takes your breath away. Vocabulary lesson time – a batholith is a rock formation under the ground that has been unearthed by erosion. Other famous batholiths include Stone Mountain near Atlanta, GA, and El Capitan and Half Dome in Yellowstone National Park.
Comprised of pink granite, Enchanted Rock State Natural Area, or E-Rock as it is commonly known, is a great day trip from Fredericksburg or Austin, TX. The Tonkawa Indians believed they could hear the spirits talking at night, thus, the source of the name. Geologists tell us today that the creaking and moaning sounds come from the rock heating during the day, and cooling at night. Still, a hike to the top of E-Rock is an “enchanting” experience for anyone.
There are two ways to see Enchanted Rock: (1) Walk the 4-mile trail through the picturesque canyons around the base of the giant, looking up at the sheer cliffs and sides sliding toward you, or (2) walk straight up the side of E-Rock. While there is a “path” of sorts, you pretty much walk up the side, all the while at a serious slant, until you get to the top. With backpack in place and bottled water in hand, we tackled the rocky rise.
It was fall, and we were amazed to see the wildflowers literally growing from cracks in the great rock. Reaching the top, the view for miles and miles around all sides defied description. The total silence, broken only by the occasional voice of a fellow hiker or the screech of a buzzard flying below us, was intoxicating. Sound a little dramatic? There aren’t words to describe the peace that fell over us as we sat for a long time atop the granite dome, imagining the messages of the spirits who spoke to the Tonkawa in earlier days.
Hiking straight up E-Rock is for those in excellent physical condition. Absolutely no knee, ankle, back, or heart problems should attempt the hike to the top. The walk up is not nearly as challenging as the walk down!
Camping in the park is for tents only; reservations are a serious recommendation. The park closes to day hikers, particularly on weekends, if too many people show up at once and the parking lot is filled. You can buy some limited supplies when you check in at the Ranger Station. Picnicking sites and restrooms are available. Wilderness camping on the far side of E-Rock is also an option for wilderness lovers.
I have climbed Enchanted Rock twice, both times a blessing of spiritual and natural beauty. Now, missing the ACL in one of my knees, I’ll enjoy it from the trails that wind around the base.
